The Grand Palace

Went to the Grand Palace today. Took the bus which is, I believe, the loudest form of transport on the planet.

First I walked around an interesting exhibition of medals and coins and royal ornaments, which mainly consisted of ceremonial swords headdresses, and betel nut sets.

These guys were SERIOUSLY into their betel nuts I can tell you. Ornamental knives for cutting them, ornamental bowls for holding them, spittoons for spitting them after you’ve chewed them, all with specific designs according to the rank of the owner. Water pitchers also designate rank... gold kettles for hot water were cylindrical for the King and the royal family, and spherical for high ranking officials. They all dated from around the 1800’s.

There was lots of enamelling on all these pieces... but I really must say, (and I’d have to qualify this as i really am a bit of an expert on this subject) their enamelling was rubbish!! The Russians were doing far better quality stuff 400 years earlier.

There were some interesting jewellery pieces such as 5 amulet chains (each amulet inscribed with holy words inside) worn by kings for victory in battle. Also the “ring of 9 gems” regarded as an object of honour since the Ayutthaya period containing fine gold, diamond, ruby, emerald, topaz, garnet, black sapphire, “grey gem”, zircon and cat’s eye crysoberyl. This was worn inserted in the waist cloth to signify rank or on the right index finger when attending royal ceremonies.

Oh, and Buddhists have rosaries too, made of 108 beads. I didn't know that.

Learnt about the royal tonsure ceremony, the coming of age ceremony of Royal children (last performed in 1928.... the child’s head was shaved around the topknot, then, dressed in their royal garments and decorated with jewels they were taken to the place of ceremony where their top knot was divided into 3 and bound with silver, gold and copper threads, respectively.

One lock was cut off by the ceremonial chairperson, one by a respected family elder, and the third by the father, then the rest of the child’s head was shaved, followed by a bathing ceremony in which they were blessed by the rest of the family, and then they were carried 3 times round mount Kailash on a Palanquin. All of this happened in the morning, then they had to do some sort of candle ceremony in the afternoon. The whole caboodle was finally over then next morning when the aforementioned locks of hair were floated away in the river.

I still think I prefer the British version where Wills and Harry just got to go out on the piss.....

Anyway, as you stifle a yawn, that's all just piffle when you actually get within the walls of the grand palace.

There was more gold and shiny stuff in front of me than I have ever seen before....little bells tinkled away around the tops of the temples... it’s as if you’ve suddenly been minaturised and transported to the dressing table of the Sultana of Brunei’s as you wander amongst so many bejewelled perfume bottles, pepper pots, and amazing intricate ornaments and jewels glistening in the sun, in the end they all just meld together so that you can only stand in awe... trying to photograph them to show their true brilliance is virtually impossible.

I literally had to sit down; it really was so truly unbelievable. I think I can now understand how stained glass windows used to mesmerise church gatherings when they were first invented, as this much gold is truly mesmeric!

The temple of the emerald Buddha was predictably full of gold and very beautiful also. Vaulted ceilings mosaiced in red and gold, interspersed with gold rosettes, gave way to intricately painted muralled walls depicting scenes of meditation, of battles, and of the palace itself. Different coloured marbled inlays cover the floor, which is itself covered in shoeless kneeling worshipers and suitably dumbstruck tourists as the intoxicating smell of jasmine and incense permeates the air all around.

The statue itself is sitting on an enormous pedestal, surrounded itself, by more gold Buddha statues, lamps and incense burners, and bowls for offerings.

Actually the Emerald buddha is made of jade, but when the monk who first found it when it was covered in plaster, saw a bit chipped off the nose, thought the green underneath was emerald so it became known as that.

I have to admit it was extremely pleasant and calming to sit for a while in contemplation of the surroundings and almost unbelievable constructions I had just seen.

Everywhere holds an opportunity to buy offerings for the Buddha; you can even buy gold leaf to attach to these ones!

Loved this guys mildly camp pose...

The entire area is constantly kept at its best by continual renovation work, so three is always just that little bit of scaffolding that gets in the way of a great photo.

Anyway... ths was just the temple area! There was loads more to come before you even got to the palace itself.