Kaikoura

Last night I walked a mile or so down the road around the bay for dinner... decided that as this was the most beautiful place on earth, I would treat myself to something really nice to eat with a nice glass of wine to go with it, all whilst looking at the beautiful view.

On the way I saw a gaggle of seagulls enjoying the calm seas and playing on the edge of the surf... the old game of jump-the-wave, whilst others just rode them contentedly in unison which was fascinating to watch.

The sun was setting as I walked around the bay turning the misty cloud that had settled on the hills a dusky pink, and the caps of the snowy mountain a glowing peach before everything became purple, before the deepening blue turned to black. 

A mist had formed n the sea making it seem as if the mountains were floating above the earth, a magical land in the sky.  And I ate rib-eye steak and drank a nice merlot and read a great book once the view had finally disappeared.

But that was not the end of my treat. As I stepped outside after a superb meal into the brisk cold of the night, I saw that every star there ever was in the sky had come out just for me. And I walked back under them, listening to the waves crashing on the shore, smelling the sea, and wishing I never had to leave this magical place.

And tomorrow I swim with Dolphins!  How much better can life get?

New Zealand.... Journey to the South island

Early start this morning getting the Interislander ferry... had to get a shuttle at 7 am and it was miserably cold and had a horrible last minute panic thinking I’d lost my credit card, but I hadn’t...

  

 But then got to the ferry port.....and set off...

Now, I can’t be completely sure... but it’s entirely possible that New Zealand is the most beautiful place on Earth.  Certainly never in my lifetime have I seen such majesty of nature that moves me to the very core of my being actually leaving me wide eyed and trembling.

The Sea is almost unbearably blue, the ragged perfection of the rain and weather sculpted hill, and the symmetry of the snow capped peaks.

When those Magritheans get it right, they REALLY get it right, don’t they.

Get a load of this!

When you see such places as this, as well as feeling so overcome and elated by the sight of such wonders, I also feel shame beyond measure for my species as a whole. This kind of beauty can only really happen in places that man, as yet, has not managed to fuck up.  I actually think tge wind farms above are quite nice!

This ferry trip is said to be the most stunning in the world, and in my limited experience I’d have to agree.  Here are just a few of the breathtaking views I saw...I found myself running from one side of the ship to the other desperately trying to see everything, and to store it in my mind and feeling elated and sad already because I knew that I wouldn’t be able to.

Amazingly other people chose to go below to the cinema... I mean, they were showing Star Trek... but still....

I spent the whole 3 hours on the deck simply marvelling at the early morning sun on the coastlines as we travelled the course past all the small islands, across the cape, and over to the south island.

I saw gannets swooping and diving into the glowing turquoise water, seals swimming, and a small dolphin rolling and playing in the froth alongside the boat.  I don’t think I have ever seen such spectacular views and felt so moved by the purity of the untouched scenery.

I thought after the ferry that I would get some rest on the bus to kaikoura but the scenery here on the south island just demands to be gawped at.    Spring is very much springing here and the purples and yellows and whites of the flowers and blossoms stand out against the dense deep green of the forest, the fluffy shrubs all set perfectly against the dusky lilac of the mountains and the blue blue sky.

It really is the most beautiful day, not a cloud in the sky except maybe a few tiny ones off in the distance over the north island glimpses of which we could still see as we travel up the coast.  I tried to take pictures out of the window but just ended up with blurs that do not do justice to what I saw anyway.

We passed pockmarked hills hugged by the odd cluster of rounded shrubs, their stony underwear occasionally rudely visible underneath their woolly jumpers of grass, contrasting the turquoise blue of the sea as frothy white waves crash against black rocks and sand.

I saw the sea change colour as rivers joined it and merged with the biggest horizon I have ever seen.  I saw seals lolling on the wet brown rocks and frolicking in the water

We crossed 3 dry fords, (so no splashing through) and suddenly there they were... massive snow capped mountains loomed above us on the right, with the ocean still on the left... sensory overload!!!!

Thus proving all Kiwis mad if they choose to leave this place for London..or indeed anywhere else.

This is the view from my bedroom window.  (those are huge snow capped mountains in the distance!)

More of Wellington

Well, today I took a bus journey out to Miramar to the WETA cave. Weta workshop created loads of the special effects for Lord of the Rings and I was almost pantwettingly excited about going out there to see it. But when they say it’s a mini museum they weren’t kidding. My studio flat was bigger!

There were loads of props from the movies, and you got to watch a film about the effects they have created in LOTR, the Narnia series, and loads of other films, however there are so many confidentiality laws that govern what they show you, even years after the films are made, that they can’t show you everything you’d like to know, or show you around their workshops. And I like to know how things work.

It was enough, though, to make me want to work for them... how exciting it would be to create props, or miniature sets, and models for different projects, it really was the closest thing I’ve had to a religious experience for a while. I asked if there were any jobs going and they said they get over 1000 email applications per week.

They had a great Gollum though, and an Urucai, and you could even buy a copy of the “one ring”.. Which was really tempting....but it was only I 9 ct and over $500. ridic!

So then I went back and got the famous Wellington cable car to the top of one of the hills and had a stomp around the botanical gardens up there, but it was really really windy and despite how beautiful it looked, it was pretty chilly.

Saw the “sundial of human involvement” where you stand on the date and your shadow points to the time... it was bang on too!!

This dome on top of the hill contains an Astrolabe, which is an instrument to measure the altitude of stars and planets. The astrolabe was used during the International Geophysical Year (1957-58) to measure the wobbling of the earth on it’s axis. This involved measurement s of the stars over several months enabling them latitude of the site to be determined precisely. As a result, the cent re of this dome is known more accurately worldwide than any other point in New Zealand.

I saw around the cable car museum too, as there are loads of private cable cars in Wellington because of the hilliness, and people are now getting them installed so they don’t have to constantly schlep their shopping up stairs to their houses on the hillsides, in fact there are over 400 private ones in Wellington alone!

Some are massive, and some little more than a glorified Stena, however, still cool!!! I liked the old “Red Rattler” that they used to run before the newer models in 1976 – look at these outside seats, set at an angle (the hill it climbs is 1:5 gradient) and the leather straps for the passengers to hold on to during their journey!

On my way home I had my eye drawn to the library, in think you can see why!

And there was this guy practising his parkour against one of the modern sculptures they have outside the town hall

Wellington is a pretty funky town as it goes, I rather like it here - it's certainly beautiful, full of fun and art, and friendly people.  Now all I have to do is get a job at WETA!

New Zealand

Well. Arrived last night at 11.30 thinking “excellent my plane is early , I’ll get some sleep tonight" only to be annoyingly pulled aside by customs, my bags searched, various possessions swabbed and finally after much fucking around, and pointless, but to be fair, mild mannered questioning, I finally had a piece of coral that had already travelled through 3 countries, confiscated, leaving me to repack my bag which took AGES as there is a very precise system which it has to be done by to ensure certain things stay flat whilst others are near enough the top to be accessed easily when entering a pitch black dorm at 2am so as not to disturb other residents. FFS

Anyway. Finally arrived at the hostel at 1 am.. Not feeling tired any more. Went out for a calming beer. And got to bed around 2 when I realised that the beer and accompanying music was not calming me.

Got up this morning at 9.. Just couldn’t get up any earlier to find a man standing in his pants at the foot of my bunk. I had booked an all girls dorm so was pretty annoyed, (but this did explain the smell of feet)

Organised the right room for tonight, and went out to explore Wellington.

Had a bacon (?!!) bagel (so wrong, but yet so right) on my way to visit Te Papa, the museum of New Zealand which was really excellent. Fr one thing I arrived just in time to see a great show by the New Zealand Ballet company “A day in the life of” which I thoroughly enjoyed. I was going to nip up and tell them about my trophy achievement but thought the better of it in the end

After a great show, where you could ask the dancers questions at the end, I walked to the end of the building to be greeted by one of the most spectacular views I have ever seen from a city. It was sunny but cold puff course, as I looked out over the giant bay of wellington. White horses sprinted across the turquoise water in front of the distant mountains, where you could just about make out snow capped peaks. To my right, the neat little marina highlighted the water further whilst little blocky houses clung to the steep hills behind them amongst the deep green foliage and to my left, the city with it’s gleaming glass buildings and grid like order and wide promenades shone and sparkled happily under tumultuous clouds and blue blue sky.

Am having o describe this in so much detail as I completely forgot to take my camera so I am unable to share this beauty with you in any better way.

The Museum is also home to the preserved body of a Colossal Squid, which I remember watching a documentary on so it was great to see it up close, though it really wasn’t as colossal as I was expecting. It was only abut 10 ft long, and I was expecting at least 3 times that, however it was still pretty cool – it has the largest eye of any mammal, about the size of a foot ball. It should however only be known as the “quite big squid” as I feel sure something should be over 20 ft long to be called “colossal”

Also found out that NZ used to be completely covered in bush; now with more than 4m people in the country it barely covers ¼ of the country any more.

Had to go against all my principals and go into a starbucks to use their wifi (there seems to be less of it here than in Asia..... ridic!) Planned my next few days, and booked stuff......

Tomorrow I plan to visit WETA which is the museum funded by Peter Jackson which has loads of LOTR paraphernalia, and memorabilia, as well as that from other sci fi films. Can’t wait for that. Then I ma going to get the cable car to...wherever it goes, and back again, to see the views, and then the next day I get an early ferry across to the south island to Picton and a bus straight from there to Kaikoura.

There I shall swim with dolphins, however bloody cold it is, and stay in a YHA place which sounds OK. And then bus it on to Christchurch.

Early night tonight I think!

Well that’s what I’d planned, but ended up getting drunk on free champagne with the girls from my dorm and some bloke called Jules.... I’d better get up before breakfast finishes!

FAR too windy

They weren't allowing anyone up the tower today as it was so ridiculously windy.  I actually got almost blown off my feet on the street.

So I went to the Wildlife World to learn more about Australian wildlife, and then Aquarium as it was next door.

It was superb.

I had so much fun, and saw so many cool animal, and actually got to stroke a Kangaroo!

and a stick insect

Glared at by a wallaby

waved at by a Koala

actually, he was just reaching for a leaf, it was a lucky shot, I was actually completely ignored by a koala...

was made to lean dangerously over a precipice by a butterfly

and looked down on by some kookaburras.

and posed for with dignity by a lizard.

and met all sorts of other creatures... even attempted to take pictures of a duck billed platypus but they move so fast,  dammit  and WILL not pose.

anyway - then I went to the Aquarium, which was also great fun...

I got smiled at by a Sea Cow (or a dugong)

moved by some groovy looking moray Eels

and met a seriously cool turtle duuuuuude...

and even got to go underwater myself (hence me holding my breath)

 

Luckily I wasn't in with this guy....

or this one

I now feel at one with all sea creatures

Went for too many beers last night, but I wanted to go to at least SEE Bondai beach and go up the tower, but it is as windy as yesterday and now it's absolutely hammering it down with rain. :( and it's even colder.  It's warmed back up in all the places I've been! Honestly... I seem to just drag rain and cold fronts across Australia with me.

mmm. what to do today then if I stop feeling a bit grim,?... the Maritime museum? meh.   Art gallery....hmmm....

We shall see.  All I really need to do is get some gloves and a woolly hat for when I go to New Zealand.  Oh and pack! And do my washing!  Oh my god,  I fly to New Zealand tomorrow!

Look! I'm really in Sydney!

and the weather is fantastic!  Well, when I say fantastic I mean it's unbelievably COLD, but it looks great.

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I spent yesterday around Sydney Cove, taking in the sights of the Opera House, Sydney Harbour, and the beautiful botanic gardens, which has some amazingly rare flora and fauna.

Around the edge of the Harbour various Australian Authors were celebrated with quotes in the pavement:

"The sun came up through the heads and stole it’s way to the Quay,  far over the bay. Each of the tiny  waves turned to flame, and as the sun rose higher it left pearly tracks across the water.  A month would not be long enough to imbibe such beauty....”

Miles Franklin 1879-1954

I like to think she was talking about this bay... it's absolutely beautiful.  The Opera House is as breathtaking as I'd always imagined and the harbour and bridge stunning against the scudding clouds.

The design of the Opera house was actually open to anyone, internationally and the winning design actually came from a Dutch man based on the Wing of a Swan and the sail of a boat. Which is nice.

The Harbour itself is full of lovely clean twinkly shiny Buildings that sparkle in the sun and reflect in the water (though not in this photo as the sun went in).  And the water is so blue and clear!



Had almost embarrassingly lovely walk (I couldn't stop grinning, being surrounded by so many lovely plants , under such huge sky, next to such amazing and iconic buildings) around the Botanical Gardens too, and saw the famous Wollemi Pine, the one thought to be extinct but was then rediscovered.  There are less than 100 still growing in the wild.  Loads growing in peoples houses worldwide though as they can be bought for $30 these days.

There were also lots of birds... the clever Ibis, which is not really indiginous to the city but like seagulls are excellent scavengers, so they thrive anywhere.  I still can't get over seeing all these creatures close up, in REAL LIFE.  Every time there is a chance to see a kangaroo, or a cockatoo i can't tell you how childishly giggling-and-jumping-up-and-down excited it makes me feel!

There were, conversely, also the stupidest birds in the world, the Spur Winged Plover (or Masked Lapwing) which apparently nest on the ground in the most exposed area that can possibly be found!  (hence the fact that it has to be cordoned off for it's own safety.)

Once it's eggs have hatched it will however, dive at intruders, and also pretend to have  broken wing  to lure predators away but frankly I think this is too little too late. I mean... seriously how can one of them not ever considered that,  to avoid the theatrical attempts and desperate diving later,  trees are undoubtedly better spots .  Everyone else is doing it but no, the plovers just can't be bothered with all that.  Look!  She hasn't even bothered to build a nest!  She has essentially just sat down and thought ".....this'll do."  Probably cracked a can open a can of special brew and  sparked up a fag.

However i have no further knowledge of this birds behaviour; I may be being unfair, and they may, upon the hatching of their offspring, become unbelievably fastidious and doting parents, but frankly if I was mother nature's social worker, I'd have my eye on this lot.

Anyway , I also saw a rather lovely tree, that looked as though it had fallen over drunk, called the dragon-blood tree, named after the red sap that flows out of it if it is damaged.    This sap is used for amongst other things to develop polish for musical instruments (the red colour you get on stringed instruments), though I do feel it ought to have magical healing properties with a name like that.

Also saw a rather beautiful mulberry tree that was taken from a cutting from the one in Shakespeare's garden, under which he apparently wrote many of his plays.

There was quite a cool looking sundial in the middle of the sweetest smelling, tranquil herb garden.....but sadly it was wrong....

And saw the Hugest Bats I have ever seen! You can jsut about see them hanging from this tree:

Wandered around for a lot longer, and had a lovely meal with Christine at a great Chinese in the evening... mmmmmm....lovely day.

Tomorrow the Sky Tower and Zoo!